Hoatzin birds along the banks of Mahaica River (Source: own photo)
We leave Georgetown in the darkness of 4.30am and head out along the Demerara Coast until we hit the Mahaica River. After a short drive across the floodplain with rice and wheat fields, we arrive at the Mahaica River Lodge, which sits beneath trees and coconut palms on a peaceful stretch of the river. Ramesh, the 60-year old Indo-Guyanan owner of the lodge, invites us in for hot coffee.
Mahaica River Lodge in the early morning light (Source: own photo)
In the first light of dawn, the birds start to sing. Before long, it is a cacophony in the early gloom.
I love the sound of Green-Tailed Jacamar in the morning (Source: own photo)
As the light improves, I spot an Iguana chillaxing on a tree branch. Others loaf atop palm fronds. Iguanas eat leafy vegetables and fruit. They are a delicacy in Guayana. Skin them and put them in a curry. The meat has green streaks.
Iguana stretching (Source: own photo)
Ramesh and I board his launch and quietly make our way up the river as it meanders slowly between banks of thick, green vegetation and small trees. Snowy Egrets take off ahead of us.
Snowy Egrets (Source: own photo)
The brilliant sun is now rising behind us and promises good photography against the steel grey sky of rain clouds ahead. The Mahaica river teems with life.
Brown-Throated Parakeet, Black-capped Donacobius, Yellow-Capped Parrot, Striated Heron, Pyed Water-Tyrant, and Yellow Oriole (Source: own photos)
Then we see them - the Hoatzins! National bird of Guayana. These are strange animals! They are reminiscent of dinosaurs or perhaps magical birds from a Harry Potter movie. Vegetarians, Hoatzins have digestive systems like cattle; they digest, regurgitate, and then digest again. They have hooks on their wings to crawl around in the foliage. They are also supposed to have to lowest IQ of all the world's 15,000 bird species.
Hoatzins along the bank of Mahaica River (Source: own photos)
But there is so much more to see here! One of Guyana's bird experts recently sailed up the Mahaica and spotted - in a single morning - 97 separate bird species. And sure enough, soon after the Hoatzins, we run into a Spot-Breasted Woodpecker.
Spot-Breasted Woodpecker (Source: own photo)
We head back to lodge for breakfast. On the way, we see Fork-Tailed Flycatcher, countless Great Kiskadees, and, as we arrive at the lodge, we are met by a Blue-Grey Tanager under the rafters.
Fork-Tailed Flycatcher, Freat Kiskadee, and Blue-Gray Tananger (Source: own photos)
Ramesh's wife has cooked fish, which she serves with aubergine and roti. There is guava and water melon for dessert. We eat on the decking of the lodge. As we sit there, a Giant River Otter swims right past us with a fish in its jaws!
Giant River Otter (Source: own photo)
Over breakfast, we discuss opportunities for more nature adventures in Guayana. The possibilities seem endless. I want to come back to spend a few more days at the Mahaica River Lodge. I want to travel further up the river, as far as the Amerindian settlement at St. Cuthbert's Mission. I also want to explore the Demerara coastline, where the Mahaica River empties into the Atlantic Ocean, because the coastline has Scarlet Ibis and many other shore birds. I also want check out the birds in and around the rice fields beyond the river banks. There are Savannah Hawks here and we see one perched on a telephone post as we head back.
Savannah Hawk (Source: own photo)
Beyond Mahaica, I want to visit the Rupununi Savannah lands, which are home to Jaguars and Giant Anteaters. There are also Harpy Eagles among the 250 species of birds found there. I also want to see the spectacular Guianan Cock-of-the-rock at the Kaieteur Falls.
I am no expert on birds. I am not particularly efficient with a camera either. I missed far more birds than I was able to photograph, including Kingbirds, Kingfishers, Cormorants, Herons, Vultures, Jacanas, Egrets, and countless little birds. For a comprehensive list of the birds found on the Mahaica River, see here.
The End
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